Classic Stitches Price List

FROM 1ST JANAUARY 2010 TO 31ST DECEMBER 2010

Matilda's Own Wadding

VARIOUS WIDTH AND DESIGNS OF BACKING FABRICS ARE AVAILABLE. PRICES ON APPLICATION.

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Description of Quilting Styles

EDGE TO EDGE/CONTINUOUS/ALL OVER DESIGNS
This is a repeated design of your choice. These designs start at the top of your quilt and continue in evenly spaced rows throughout the quilt top to the bottom edge of your quilt.

STITCH IN THE DITCH
Stitching is placed as close as possible into the seams of your quilt, this is the slowest form of quilting.

CROSS HATCHING
Lines quilted on the diagonal in two directions, this is excellent for Applique and Candlewick Quilts.

CUSTOM
Placing designs that are specific to your creation, including some meandering or texturing. Light quilting. Not including – Stitch in the Ditch, Cross Hatching.

CUSTOM PLUS
May include, detailed Outlining, Single block designs or Original designs, Stitch in the Ditch, Cross Hatching and/or individual designs in each block. Just about anything you would like on your quilt to enhance your work.

BINDING
I am happy to bind your quilt for you. This could include, making the binding, squaring your quilt, machine stitching the binding on, then hand sewing it to the back of your quilt, or any part of this process.

THREADS
I prefer to use Rasant, King Tut & YLI threads.
Rasant and plain thread prices are included in the quilting costs. However, if you choose variegated threads, or many thread changes then these are charged from 3% per square foot.

Preparing Your Quilt Top for Professional Machine Quilting

• Ensure all threads are trimmed – front & back of your quilt top.

1. Your backing needs to be at least 4 – 6 inches larger than your Quilt top on all sides. For your guidance, the backing fabric is pinned to the rollers and clamped at the sides, making it taught for quilting.

• Always remove selvedge's from backing fabrics when joining and ensure that it is squared on all sides. The fabric may become distorted and run off line if this is not done. Cut on the straight grain and the seam is ironed open. (actual size, ready for quilting)
• Choose backing fabrics with an even weave, similar to the top of your quilt. No sheeting fabrics, please. These do not quilt up well and may end in poor results. For best results, choose 100% cotton to blend or compliment your quilt rather than a contrast.
• Wadding is also required to be at least 4 – 6 inches larger than your quilt top on all sides.
• Label the Top edge of your Quilt and Top of Backing to ensure they are placed the correct way.
• Do not baste or pin your Quilt
• Fullness and puckers pieced into your quilt top, will not necessarily be quilted out. The quilting process can hide some imperfections but not all.
• Every endeavour will be made to make your finished quilt look its very best.
• Depending on the density of the pattern or quilting selected, some shrinkage may occur and Customers should be aware of fabric movement during quilting. It is your responsibility to square your quilt prior to binding. Should your quilt backing be pieced or have borders, extra time should be allowed at the time of delivery to discuss your requirements. Whilst every care will be taken to centre the quilt , due to the makeup of the Longarm Machine, no guarantee or responsibility will be accepted.

Bed Quilt Sizes

ACTUAL BED SIZES
COTS/CRIBS 27” wide x 52” long
SINGLE BED 39” wide x 75” long
DOUBLE BED 54” wide x 75” long
QUEEN BED 60” wide x 80” long
KING BED 76” wide x 80” long

Use this handy table to help you determine the size of your quilt. Quilts that cover double ensembles (except cot/crib quilts) include a 16” drop on the sides and bottom and an extra 10” for a pillow tuck, if required.

Binding Calculations

• For straight edge quilts using straight cut binding

• To calculate the binding you require for your quilt, use this simple guide.

• Measure your trimmed, squared, completed quilt on all sides.

• Add these numbers together giving actual area.

• Working on your binding fabric being approx 40 /43 inches wide.

• Divide your total quilt area by your fabric width.

• This will give you the total amount of cuts you require to make your binding. Always round up to the next number.

• Width to cut binding fabric – I like to use 2.25inches for Machine Quilted Quilts using Matilda’s Own wadding. This seems to offer the best results with no surplus. Avoiding unnecessary wear n tear, sitting snugly around the quilt.

Example only
Quilt measurement 95 + 108 + 95 + 108 = 406 inches
406 inches divide by 40 inches = 10.15
You will require 11 cuts in total

Handy hint.
Join strips right sides together on the bias. Trim seams to ¼ inch, press these open. This will help your binding sit nice and flat. Fold binding in half, iron, then attach to right side of quilt by machine - mitre the corners. For a neat finish, hand sew the other side down.

Measuring Your Quilt

• To avoid surplus fabric, fullness and puckers in your quilting project, it is important that you measure your project regularly during the piecing process as everyone works/sews a little differently.

• Make sure your blocks each measure the size stated in your pattern. Adjust as required.

• Check and double check that any sashings required are the same size as your blocks.

• Borders: these must be measured exactly. For best results, have your quilt either ironed or firmly finger pressed. It is most important to measure your quilt in at least three areas on your quilt top per border.

• Side borders:- Lay quilt top out flat and measure left side of quilt (top to bottom) then centre of quilt and right hand side of quilt. Writing these measurements down. In the event that these measurements differ, add them together, then divide them by three. This will give you the actual length of border fabric required.

• Using Border Fabric. Measure the size required, placing a pin or marking with pencil both ends.

• Fold border fabric in half, mark/pin this point. Repeat to find quarter marks also. e.g.

• _!_____________!_____________!_____________!_____________!_

• pin pin ¼ pin centre pin ¼ pin

• Quilt Top: mark as per last step.

• Next match the pins for Border and Quilt, ease in the quilt/border if required, pinning at regular intervals.

• When happy, sew together.

• Repeat for Top Borders and any additional borders.

• The result is a nice flat and even quilt. Without wavy borders, puckers and fullness.

If I don’t have a ¼” foot, what do I do?

The ¼ inch seam. Having a consistent ¼” seam will mean your blocks will be square and your points and seams will line up every time for every block and row of blocks.
This YouTube video shows how to make a ¼” guide line

Pressing Seams

Pressing Seams. Most, but not all patterns will tell you which way to press your seams. If they don’t it is usually safe to press to the darkest fabric. Pressing seams after you stitch each section of your block will help to keep your blocks from having what I call lumps. Lumps happen when (after the top is assembled) the seam goes one way at the top seam and the other way at the bottom seam. This causes your finished top to have lumps at the seam. These video links will help you achieve beautifully pressed seams. Pay special note to the part about “Butting Seams” in the second video

This YouTube video shows how to press quilt strips

This YouTube video shows how to sew a quilt together

Squaring Each Block

Before you start to make your rows of blocks to assemble your top, make sure that all the blocks are the same size. I use a “square up ruler” for this. This is a square ruler and they come in various sizes 6-1/2, 9-1/2, 14-1/2, 19-1/2 etc. The grid marks on the ruler allows you to square all size blocks within that size group. The half sizes on all these rulers allow for the ¼” seam allowance on all sides. If your finished block is 6” then you square the block to 6-1/2”.

Squaring Your Quilt Top
What is important is that the top is square prior to adding borders and quilting. If each block is squared prior to stitching your rows together then when you have your top completed only minor trimming is required to square the top. We longarmer’s don’t like to cut your top because we know how precious it is after all the hours spent making it. This video presents the final squaring up process. If you use the same process for your quilt top it makes my job and your finished quilt come out perfect.

This YouTube video shows how to press quilt strips

Squaring The Backing

Longarmer’s use a quilting table/frame that we attach the backing then layer the wadding and the Quilt top onto. The backing is then clamped to keep it nice and tight to avoid pleating. This is the reason why we need that extra 4-6” of fabric all the way around the backing. The backing should be squared prior to quilting. If you have a pieced back using different fabrics it is important to square the back to make sure all the pieces are straight, so it will quilt straight. We want the quilt to be just as beautiful on the back as on the top.

This YouTube video shows how to square your backing

Applying Your Binding

One of the simplest ways to apply your binding to a straight edge quilt, is with straight cuts of fabric joined on the bias. This method appears to sit much nicer on your quilt, with no extra bulk at seem joins. Once you have joined all your strips together, trim to ¼” of seem and iron open. Attach binding with your ¼” foot using a mitered folded corner. To watch a video on this is done, please view the Link below.

This YouTube video shows how to Apply Binding to a Quilt

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